5804 10 — Tulles and other net fabrics (excl. woven, knitted or crocheted fabrics)

5804 Tulle and other mesh fabrics, with the exception of woven fabrics, knitted or hand-knitted knitted fabrics; lace in a piece, in ribbons or in the form of separate ornaments, other than the canvases of headings 6002 to 6006 (+): 5804 10 – tulle and other mesh fabrics – machine-knitted lace: 5804 21 – from chemical threads 5804 29 – from other textile materials 5804 30 – hand-knitted lace

(I) TULLES AND OTHER SESSIONS These articles are used for the manufacture of curtains, bedspreads or similar household utensils, veils, women's clothing, embroidery, etc. They are usually made of silk, chemical threads, cotton or linen yarn. (A) Tulle and other mesh fabrics are composed of basic threads with weasel threads wrapped around each main thread and diagonally running from edge to edge, one half of the duck tilted in one direction and the other half in the other (see Figure 1). These filaments form cells with a base; the cells may be regular hexagonal, square, or diamond-shaped (Nayville grid). Another type of tulle with hexagonal cells (Mechlin grid) with consists of the main threads and a system of bobbin threads, passing longitudinally and interwoven only with two adjacent main threads (see figure 2).

TULES A - the main threads B and C - inclined duck threads Fig. 2.

(B) The bog tulle is a special type of tulle with three types of threads: straight parallel main threads, as in an ordinary tulle, threads forming a pattern, directed alternately along the length of straight threads and passing temporarily to another (usually adjacent) straight thread, thus forming triangular cells, between which there are spaces in the form of trapezoids or other shapes, and transmutation threads that wrap around a straight base and fix on it the threads forming a figure (see figure 3). Opaque parts of the pattern are obtained by a close grouping of several similar triangular cells.

Rice. 3 bean tulle A - the main thread; B is the thread forming the pattern; C is the transfusion thread.

(C) Net fabrics have three kinds of threads: parallel warp threads, mesh-forming threads and binding threads (i.e., filet net). Each mesh-forming thread passes alternately along different warp threads and, in passing from one warp thread to another, forms square meshes. The binding threads secure the structure of the fabric by binding, at certain points, the mesh-forming threads to the warp threads (see Fig. 4).

Rice. 4 Smooth file grid A - the main thread; B is the thread forming the cells; C is the binder.

(D) Knotted mesh cloths have uniform square or diamond-shaped sheaths connected in each corner so that the threads cannot be separated. They can be manual or machine-made. This heading does not cover: (a) rarefied fabrics of Chapters 50 to 55 and weaving fabrics of heading 5803; (b) grids or nets of heading 5608; (c) sito fabrics (heading 5911); (d) knitted or hand-knitted fabrics (Chapter 60); (e) tulles and other mesh fabrics produced as specified in Part (II) of the general provisions of Section XI.

(ii) Lace is used for decoration or as a decorative openwork canvas, in which the elements of the pattern (more or less complex), formed by the interlacing of threads, are connected either by cells of usually constant size and shape, forming a visible openwork cloth, or by decorative loops, which themselves create the effect of the pattern. Pattern elements and background from cells or binder loops are usually made simultaneously, but sometimes elements of patterns are made separately and then connected. The main characteristic of lace in is that the pattern is not made on an already existing basis. In this heading, the term does not therefore apply to articles having a similar appearance and sometimes called laces (filled lace), obtained by filling or decorating the cells of an already finished tulle or net,

serving as a basis, or patch application on the basis, and the base can subsequently be completely or partially removed. Such articles are regarded as embroidery in heading 5810, as are real laces of wa which have subsequently been embroidered, and lace obtained by the application patch. This heading also excludes openwork articles of any type, made by hand or machine knitting (Chapter 60); they can generally be distinguished by their characteristic knitting weaves, especially in the continuous parts of the article. Unlike tulle, weave fabrics or other sparse fabrics, laces do not have a distinct base and duck. Laces are often produced from a single thread, and when more than one thread is used, these threads perform the same function. Laces are handmade or machine-made. The main types of handmade lace: (A) Needle lace made with a needle on a sheet of paper or parchment, on which the pattern is applied. Lace follows the outline pattern a, and its constituent threads lie on the paper, but do not pass through it; frame threads, that is, threads forming the original frame of lace, are temporarily attached to the pattern by transverse loops to facilitate work. Needle laces are Alansonian, Argentan, Venetian, etc. (B) Bobine lace (woven on a pillow) is weaved from several threads wound on reels, with threads twisted on a pillow on which the pattern is fixed and into which pins are temporarily stuck to facilitate lace weaving. Coil laces are called valancien, chantilier, crimson, bruge, duchess, puy, etc. (C) Lace crochet (known as Irish crochet). Unlike the types of lace described above, lace cruche is not applied to a pattern or support; it is crocheted by hand. (D) Other different types of lace, more or less similar to other varieties of lace: (1) Tenerife lace, which is made as needle lace. (2) Lace sewing is a needle lace, in which there are some areas made of lace tape; made on a pillow or mechanically. (3) Lace, woven similar to lace crutch, but with circular patterns and produced by means of a shuttle. (4) Makrame - heavy lace obtained by binding into knots in various ways a number of threads fixed at right angles to the main thread. Machine-made laces in appearance are usually similar to hand-made lace, except for bobbin lace, but the method of weaving threads is different, and these laces are more uniform than hand-made. Handmade or machine-made laces are classified in this heading if they are: (i) in a piece or ribbon of any length; or (ii) in separate ornaments, that is, separate parts intended only for insertion or application on articles such as nightgowns, lingerie, blouses or other articles of clothing, handkerchiefs, tablecloths, or other household appliances.

These articles are classified in this heading whether made in one piece by the lacemaker, cut from larger pieces, or assembled from several separate lace elements. The heading excludes articles of lace; these are classified according to their characteristics, usually in Chapter 62 or 63 (namely, lace mantillas in heading 6214, lace yokes and collars for women's clothing in heading 6217 and lace table mats in heading 6304). Subheading Explanatory Notes. Subheadings 5804 21, 5804 29 and 5804 30 Machine-made imitations of hand-made lace resemble hand-made lace in appearance, but can be distinguished by the following criteria. Machine-made lace is often produced in fairly wide pieces which are cut into strips during finishing operations. In this case the edges of the cut strips almost always retain the links, or part of the links, of the openwork fabric which joins one strip to another on the machine. These links or parts of them are on the outer side of the lace. They are usually visible where the line along the edge forms an inside angle, i.e., where they are difficult to reach without damaging the edge. The presence of these links or parts of them clearly indicates that the lace is machine-made. The difference may also be established by examining the decorative motifs of the lace, the direction of the relief (or outlining) threads and the filling threads. In hand-made lace these threads may be laid in any direction and returned to their original direction. In machine-made lace backward working is impossible; the threads may therefore diverge to the right or to the left, but they must follow the direction of progress of the work. The method of filling the solid parts of the design is a third factor to be taken into account in distinguishing between hand-made and machine-made lace. In hand-made lace only the following are used: – the close stitch, i.e., the zigzag or buttonhole stitch, in the case of needle lace; – the cloth stitch or half stitch, in the case of bobbin lace. The cloth stitch exactly reproduces plain weave. In the half stitch the threads serve as warp and are divided into two layers forming an angle of about 90° between them; the weft thread passes through this surface alternately over one thread of the first (upper) layer and immediately under the thread (or threads) of the second layer. In machine-made lace the following filling methods are most widely used: – the cloth stitch, but with the particularity that the threads forming the weft do not necessarily pass from one edge of the motif to the other. In some cases they cover only part of the transverse direction and meet another thread to complete the motif; – a threading method similar to that used to obtain the filled parts in bobbin net (straight threads, pattern-forming threads, binding threads); – laying through the net a thread which forms a plain weave with the warp threads. In both of the above methods the net ends where the design begins, but in the last case this is not so.

The following considerations may also help to distinguish hand-made lace from machine-made lace. Indeed, in some cases these considerations are the only criterion for identifying them, particularly when hand-made bobbin lace has to be distinguished from machine-made bobbin lace: (a) Small defects or irregularities found in hand-made lace occur irregularly and rarely resemble one another, whereas in machine-made lace these defects recur regularly, since they are caused by the mechanical device used in its manufacture; (b) The picots with which the edges of hand-made lace are often finished are always made of the same threads as the net, whereas in making machine-made lace additional threads forming the picots are sometimes added. In such cases they are not so firmly secured and can be pulled out without damaging the lace, which is impossible with hand-made lace; (c) The manner of presentation and packing also makes it possible to distinguish hand-made lace from machine-made lace. Hand-made lace is usually presented in pieces not exceeding 20 m in length, and each piece in a consignment usually has a different design. Machine-made lace is always longer and may be as much as 500 m in length; each consignment includes a considerable number of pieces of lace with the same design. In addition, there are "mixed" laces, known as narrow laces, Renaissance lace, Luxeuil lace and Princess lace. The making of such laces begins with a machine-made tape being laid flat on a drawing along the lines of the design. At the corners the tape is folded back so as to follow the drawing; the overlapping parts are sewn together, and the ends of the cut tape are carefully sewn in place. The loops and filling stitches are made with a needle. Furthermore, such lace can sometimes be recognised not only by the fact that the tape is folded, cut and sewn as described above, but also by the fact that it has pleats on the concave edges of the design. Such laces are regarded as hand-made lace.

Notes

English text as published in Annex I to Regulation (EU) 2021/1832 (Combined Nomenclature). The EAEU tariff and the EU nomenclature copy these notes from the same convention. For a Russian declaration the binding version is the Russian one: Annex to Decision No 80 of the EEC Council of 14 September 2021.

1. This chapter does not apply to textile fabrics referred to in note 1 to Chapter 59, impregnated, coated, covered or laminated, or to other goods of Chapter 59.

2. Heading 5801 also includes woven weft pile fabrics which have not yet had the floats cut, at which stage they have no pile standing up.

3. For the purposes of heading 5803, ‘gauze’ means a fabric with a warp composed wholly or in part of standing or ground threads and crossing or doup threads which cross the standing or ground threads making a half turn, a complete turn or more to form loops through which weft threads pass.

4. Heading 5804 does not apply to knotted net fabrics of twine, cordage or rope, of heading 5608.

5. For the purposes of heading 5806, the expression ‘narrow woven fabrics’ means:

(a) woven fabrics of a width not exceeding 30 cm, whether woven as such or cut from wider pieces, provided with selvedges (woven, gummed or otherwise made) on both edges;

(b) tubular woven fabrics of a flattened width not exceeding 30 cm; and

(c) bias binding with folded edges, of a width when unfolded not exceeding 30 cm. Narrow woven fabrics with woven fringes are to be classified in heading 5808.

6. In heading 5810, the expression ‘embroidery’ means, inter alia, embroidery with metal or glass thread on a visible ground of textile fabric, and sewn appliqué work of sequins, beads or ornamental motifs of textile or other materials. The heading does not apply to needlework tapestry (heading 5805).

7. In addition to the products of heading 5809, this chapter also includes articles made of metal thread and of a kind used in apparel, as furnishing fabrics or for similar purposes.