5810 91 — Embroidery of cotton on a textile fabric ground, in the piece, in strips or in motifs (excl. embroidery without visible ground)

5810 Embroidery in a piece, in ribbons or in the form of separate ornaments (+): 5810 10 – embroidery without a visible base – other embroidery: 5810 91 – from cotton yarn 5810 92 – from chemical threads 5810 99 – from other textile materials

Embroidery is obtained by working embroidery threads on a ground of tulle, net, velvet, ribbon, knitted or crocheted fabric, lace or woven fabrics, felt or fur felt or nonwovens, in order to produce an ornamental effect on that ground. Embroidery is usually worked with textile threads, but this heading also covers embroidery worked with other materials (for example, metal, glass or raffia). The ground usually forms part of the finished embroidery, but in some cases it is removed (chemically or by cutting) after the embroidery has been worked, leaving only the design. Certain types of embroidery are worked not with threads but with ribbons or braid.

Thus, when embroidery is made on a ready-made basis, it is different from lace; lace should not be confused with embroidery, in which this base is removed after the embroidery is ready. Embroidery should also not be confused with fabrics that have patterns from brochet threads formed during weaving (embroidery ironing or other type of brochet). Distinctive properties of embroidery from other products are given below in this explanation. Embroidery can be manual or machine. Manual embroidery is relatively small in size, while machine embroidery, unlike hand embroidery, is often made of large length. In the classification of embroideries of this heading, the following three groups are mainly distinguished: (I) embroidery without a visible basis This is embroidery, in which the base is removed (by chemical process or cutting). Thus, the material consists exclusively of embroidered patterns. As there is no basis, some machine embroideries of this type may be confused with lace embroidery of heading 5804, but one may distinguish them, taking into account the following: (A) Laces are produced from one continuous thread or by the interweaving of two or more continuous threads performing the same functions, and usually lace is of the same appearance on both sides, while machines of this type are performed by two threads having different functions: one thread is embroidery, while the second, shuttle, thread passes under the base; usually the lace has the same appearance on both sides. Thus, the front and back sides of embroidery are different, and the front side has a relief, and the back side is flat. (B) At the edges of the cut embroidery, small ends of the base threads are often visible, which are not completely removed. (II) embroidery with a base that is preserved after embroidery This is embroidery in which the embroidery thread usually does not cover the entire base, but appears as a pattern on the surface or at the edges. The stitches used are diverse and include a survey stitch, a chain stitch, a stitch formed when the material is reversed, a spruce stitch, a secret stitch, a marking stitch, a loop stitch. As a rule, the entire pattern is visible only from the front side of the canvas. Many types of embroidery have small holes or openwork pattern obtained by cutting or piercing the base with a point or pulling some basic or fine threads (or both) from the fabric, followed by finishing or decorating the fabrics with embroidery stitches. This gives embroidery lightness or even makes it a special attraction. An example is English surface and openwork embroidery. Materials which undergo only a simple process of filament pulling are not included in this heading. In some types of embroidery, the outline of the pattern is first applied or a padding thread is layered to give a greater relief to the pattern. Some types of machine embroidery, especially iron embroidery, and some embroidered muslins are very similar to muslin brochets and other brochet fabrics (for example, embroidered iron), considered in groups 50 – 55. However, they can be distinguished by the following characteristics, determined by the method of their production. Patterns in brooches.

are obtained by introducing broché threads during weaving, and therefore each element of a row of the design always lies exactly between the same weft threads or exactly between the same warp threads of the ground fabric; in embroidered fabrics, on the other hand, the ground is formed before the design appears on its surface. To produce these designs, the ground fabric is stretched on the embroidery machine, so that the tension and position of the fabric cannot be sufficiently precise for the machine needles to insert all the corresponding parts of the embroidery exactly between the same weft or warp threads of the ground fabric. In addition, the needles often pierce the threads of the ground fabric, which does not happen with broché fabrics. These distinguishing features of broché fabrics and embroidered fabrics can be observed by unravelling the edges of the design. (III) APPLIQUÉ WORK Appliqué work consists of a ground of woven fabric or of felt or fur felt, on which the following are sewn by embroidery or ordinary stitches: (A) Beads, spangles or similar ornaments; these ornaments are usually of glass, gelatin, metal or wood and are sewn on so as to form a single design or scattered designs on the ground. (B) Decorative motifs of textile or other materials. These motifs are usually of textile material (including lace) with a texture different from that of the ground, and are cut out in various patterns which are sewn onto the ground. In some cases the ground is removed from the areas covered by the decorative motifs. (C) Braid, chenille yarn or other trimmings, etc., forming a design on the ground. All the types of embroidery described above are covered by this heading when presented in the following forms: (1) In the piece or in strips of various widths. These pieces or strips may bear a series of identical designs which are subsequently to be separated for sewing into finished articles (i.e., strips of embroidered labels for marking garments, or articles embroidered at regular intervals which are to be cut off and sewn onto bibs). (2) As motifs, i.e., embroidery intended solely for insertion or application, for example, on underwear or other garments or in interior furnishing. They may be cut to any shape, assembled on a backing or in any other way. They include badges, emblems, luminescent badges, initials, numerals, stars, national or sports badges, etc. The heading excludes: (a) Embroidery on non-textile materials (e.g., on leather, plaiting materials, plastics, paperboard); (b) Needle-worked tapestries (heading 5805); (c) Sets consisting of woven fabric and yarn for making up into embroidered tablecloths or serviettes or similar articles (heading 6308); (d) Embroidery (other than motifs) referred to in Part (II) of the General Explanatory Note to Section XI, whether or not it constitutes made up articles ready for use. Also individual articles of embroidery, fully finished and ready for use, as well as those embroidered directly in their final shape without any further finishing. This wide range of articles is regarded as made up articles (Chapter 61, 62, 63 or 65) and includes, for example, handkerchiefs, shirt fronts, cuffs, collars, bodices, dresses, tray cloths and table napkins, mantelpiece runners, dish mats or lamp mats and curtains;

(e) embroidery with glass thread without a visible base (heading 7019).

Subheading Explanatory Note. Subheading 5810 10 This subheading does not cover broderie anglaise.

Notes

English text as published in Annex I to Regulation (EU) 2021/1832 (Combined Nomenclature). The EAEU tariff and the EU nomenclature copy these notes from the same convention. For a Russian declaration the binding version is the Russian one: Annex to Decision No 80 of the EEC Council of 14 September 2021.

1. This chapter does not apply to textile fabrics referred to in note 1 to Chapter 59, impregnated, coated, covered or laminated, or to other goods of Chapter 59.

2. Heading 5801 also includes woven weft pile fabrics which have not yet had the floats cut, at which stage they have no pile standing up.

3. For the purposes of heading 5803, ‘gauze’ means a fabric with a warp composed wholly or in part of standing or ground threads and crossing or doup threads which cross the standing or ground threads making a half turn, a complete turn or more to form loops through which weft threads pass.

4. Heading 5804 does not apply to knotted net fabrics of twine, cordage or rope, of heading 5608.

5. For the purposes of heading 5806, the expression ‘narrow woven fabrics’ means:

(a) woven fabrics of a width not exceeding 30 cm, whether woven as such or cut from wider pieces, provided with selvedges (woven, gummed or otherwise made) on both edges;

(b) tubular woven fabrics of a flattened width not exceeding 30 cm; and

(c) bias binding with folded edges, of a width when unfolded not exceeding 30 cm. Narrow woven fabrics with woven fringes are to be classified in heading 5808.

6. In heading 5810, the expression ‘embroidery’ means, inter alia, embroidery with metal or glass thread on a visible ground of textile fabric, and sewn appliqué work of sequins, beads or ornamental motifs of textile or other materials. The heading does not apply to needlework tapestry (heading 5805).

7. In addition to the products of heading 5809, this chapter also includes articles made of metal thread and of a kind used in apparel, as furnishing fabrics or for similar purposes.